1947-50: A new era calls for a New Look

There is one name that is synonymous with the 50's. One name that revolutionised fashion and revived Haute Couture, re-forming Paris, once more, into the powerhouse of fashion.

Christian Dior, born in Granville, Normandy in 1905 shot to success in the post war era. The New Look collection was the name of his first collection presented on the 12th February 1947. The original name was Corolle however Carmel Snow, editor in chief of Harper's Bazaar coined the title "New Look".

Looking to free women from the boxy, restrictive clothing brought on by fabric rationing, Dior designed with volume and voluptuous silhouettes in mind. Dior was once quoted saying "I have designed flower women". A master of shapes, Dior used bustier bodices and boning to rewrite the silhouette of the time. Hip padding, tight wasp-waisted corsets and layers of petticoats allowed Dior to create a silhouette that had an exaggerated flared waist, something that was completely controversial to the stiff, straight, utility dresses of the time.

Much like any sudden trend, there was backlash. Women were upset that their legs were being covered once more as they had grown used to shorter hemlines due to fabric shortages. Dior also whipped up a rage over the amount of fabric he used per outfit. He was very liberal with his fabric and many, used to sparing every scarp, saw this as wasteful and unnecessary however the opposition soon ended once wartime rationing on fabric ceased. Dior renewed the tradition of lining garments with fabrics such as percale and taffeta.

The bar suit was one of if not the most defining outfit of Dior's New Look. A cream shantung morning coat followed the contours of the upper body, clinging to the bust and cinching at the waist. A large black pleated skirt gave much needed flare and swing to the overall look which was highly dominated by the morning coat that was tight to the body. Finished off with slender shoes and sleek gloves the outfit would be complete. The stiletto was another new addition to the woman's wardrobe. Think of it as the New Look equivalent of footwear. Horseshoe collars, princess lines and coolie hats all became big styles that was used in garments by both Dior and mass-manufacturers alike.

I really enjoy Dior's New Look. I feel that it gave the industry a second lease of life. I find the outfits very inspiring and I absolutely adore the femininity and delicacy dripping from each garment Dior created.
Six decades after its first conception and presentation, Dior's New Look still inspires to this day. The New Look will never stop building, and breaking new rules for fashion to follow.