The First World War:

War broke out in 1914 affecting the high society of all countries involved, particularly France and Great Britain. Many male Couturiers signed up to fight, leaving the women in control. Despite this, The American fashion industry continued their support of French fashion houses as they were not to join the war until three years later in 1917. As morale dipped in 1916 Conde Nast launched a British edition of New York based fashion magazine Vogue to bring it back up.

Silhouettes remained column like however the style was refreshed with peplums and layered skirts. Military references filtered constantly into women's fashion; in 1915 the colour khaki was a feature in Vogue. Tailored jackets of military influence became a must have as skirts softened and became more tiered, freeing women from the constrictive hobble skirt.

In 1916 practicality became key and hemlines became to shorten due to the shortage of fabric. Domestic labour was also in short supply and so elaborate or delicate clothing was modified to reduce the need for special cleaning and pressing. The tea gown saw a decline in popularity as practical day wear became the focus of many women's lives.